Season 3 - Radical SR3-RS Tuning Thread

FYI You can get away with a bit of front camber, like -1.5 deg, to improve turn in without impacting the benefit that 0 camber brings too much as the way the rolling drag is modelled the effect comes mostly from the rear tyres.

Understeer on exit could be a number of things...

Firstly make sure you're not trying to accelerate too early. Too much throttle too early will push the front end if you still have too much steering angle applied. High front tyre temps and or high front deg will occur if you're doing this.

On the tune side try and increase front slow rebound which will slow down the weight transfer off the front tyres as you try to accelerate. If the issue only occurs on bumpy sections of the track then reduce front fast bump and rebound which will allow the front suspension to respond to the bumps and keep the tyres in contact with the road as you try to accelerate.

Hope that helps

One of @TheJuzzy and mines go to tuning method for the BMW Z4
"What's ur camber set at?"
"Oh reduce that sh*t, give that a go."
"Ahhhh mate bloody brilliant "
Zoooooommm!!

@The_Spectre i don't know how you know this stuff but I love you for sharing it. Maybe I just love you full stop... I have spent a lot of time staring at your rear

Sweet some useful tips in here! I think i may need to reduce my camber by the sounds of it, perhaps 2.5 degree's of camber must be a little excessive compared to what you guys are running
What are the benefits to zero camber apart from perhaps more stability from a bigger contact patch?

Running zero camber means that the rolling resistance of the tyre is at its lowest. Due to the mechanics of the game people have found that running zero camber ( giving higher speeds on the straights) outweighs the cornering speed benefits that camber gives. The effect was reduced in a previous patch but it is still faster to run low camber.

Caveat- its obviously track dependent so the benefit of higher straight speeds will be greater on monza than around monaco.

Lol

It's all basic vehicle dynamics really im happy to try to help anyone whose having problems and try to explain why the behaviour is occuring and give some ideas to fix it

im hitting 57s consistently as a div4 driver but havent played with the camber at all yet so hoping to crack 56s over the weekend.

Thanks Spectre!

Ok, it's been said above but I've just tried it. Reduce your camber, try front -1.5 and rear -.3 and get ready to unleash full throttle mid corner as approaching exit of the corner! Simply by changing my camber I am now in the 56's
Not sure how close to 0 you can go with camber but try it out.
Thanks to the guys who provided this info

Im running -1.5 front and 0 rear - Try 0 front as well, but i find a bit of camber helps initial turn in

I'm not the quickest but hope this helps people with line and gears for corners. Also those who can't practice through the week
I'm happy to get pointers on where I can make up time

Im not there. Hoping to get there lol. Finished mid table in div4 last season so ill say im bout right for now haha

That being said im happy to move up if you think i need to. I think of it as a challenge.

Yay. Im into the 1.56 mark.

Incredibly hot front left tire.
Temps after 5 laps
116/104
25psi/25psi
109/105
27psi/26psi

Cold pressure settings
1.26bar/1.26bar
1.30bar/1.30bar

Advise?

Yeah your cold tyre pressures are far too low. Try 1.40 bar / 1.30 bar front 1.40 bar / 1.35 bar rear.

Different tracks and different driving styles cause different tyres to be worked harder. Brno is a clockwise track and typically that means more right hand corners than left so the tyres on the left side of the car do more work. Try and adjust the cold pressures on the left side up until they are roughly equal across the car when hot.

A rough rule of thumb is if you increase the cold pressure by 0.05bar then the tyre temp should drop around 5deg (note i said rough rule of thumb). The green tyre window is between 80 and 105 deg usually and i typically aim for around 95-100deg hot for a race setup.

Based on your settings id try something like

1.45 / 1.35 front
And
1.4 /1.4 rear
As a starting point and fine tune up or down from there.

Is this a quali attempt or are you trying a full fuel run?? And what temp is the track when you did this? Don't forget we start in fog and go to clear late in the race and by then the tyre wear will keep the temps down. Running 140 might not get enough heat in for the first 10 laps while there is fog

I think you might be leaning to hard on the steering.

low fuel set up is;
124/121 fronts
122/121 rears
Over 10 laps never went above 106. My race set up isn't that much more and sits on 25psi on all 4 at 107 max on full fuel with 65% remaining on front left after 28laps.

That was with 10laps of fuel.
Just trying to find a setting that feels right really, ill do a full race simulation over the weekend. Thanks for all the info peepz

Personally I do all my testing with full race fuel, better off having a setting which works in the race and gets better as the fuel lightens. That way you get to know how the car will feel in the race too.

I totally agree.
Im just trying to get my qually pace on par with the others. Make sure im batting in the right park.